Journey to Antartica Aboard the National Geographic Explorer – Days 8 to 10
I felt someone woke me up from my sleep. I looked at the clock and it was only 2:30 am. I laid my head back on the pillow and then bolted right up. It’s 2:30! It’s sunrise time in Antarctica! I ran to the window to see if the sky was aglow with the rising sun. It was ablazed!
I tried to wake up Keith but sleep won over. It would have been nice to start his birthday with this stunning sight. Alone, I appreciated this beautiful show in the sky while thanking my angel for waking me up for my last chance to see the Antarctic sunrise. You see, it was our last morning to wake up in this amazing continent.
The magnificent Antarctic mountains post-sunrise.
PORT LOCKROY
That morning, our expedition ship docked in the protected harbor of Port Lockroy. Whalers of long ago traveled here during summertime harvesting whale which was in great demand in the settled world.
Whale bones are still scattered all over the ground of Jougla Point and peek above the snow piles.
Travelers and penguin residents explored the vast and empty land graced by the backdrop of the immensed Seven Sisters Mountains.
The British established a military base here in 1944 to secretly monitor the German shipping movements. The wartime initiative was code named Operation Tabarin, after a popular Paris nightclub, because the team members would be staying here during the very dark, and very cold, Antarctic winter months.
After World War II, the base continued to be in used as a scientific research facility until 1964. This historic base was restored in 1996 by a British Antarctic Survey and is now open to the visitors as a museum. Operated by UK Antarctic Heritage Trust (UKAHT), it has a post office and a souvenir shop, the proceed of which goes toward the upkeep of the site.
A boat shed constructed in 1958. It is now used as a storage.
Inside the museum called the Bransfield House is the Penguin Post Office. Originally established in 1944, about 70,000 postcards are posted here each year for delivery to more than 100 countries. No express delivery here! The postcards are ferried to Falkland Island and then to England before making the journey to their final destinations. The postcards we posted arrived in New York in two weeks and in the Philippines in a month.
The radio room used by military and research teams to contact other bases and ships, as well as to receive BBC World service and other radio stations.
The Ionospheric Room
One of the historic importance of Port Lockroy relates to it pioneering scientific work on ionospheric research (the study of the upper atmosphere) which was critical in understanding high frequency radio.
An instrument in Ionospheric Room.
The bathroom
The rest of the museum gave us a glimpse and a feel of the living condition of the workers in this facility from many decades ago.
The kitchen
The well stocked kitchen pantry
A cooking book opened to the page about “how to cook a penguin.”
A bedroom with bunk beds, closets, pin-up paintings on the wall and a furnace.
Gentoo penguins resting on the rocks
Nowadays, the research being carried out in Port Lockroy revolves around the population of Gentoo penguins and the impact of tourism in their environment and breeding success. Half of the island is off-limits to visitors and reserved for penguins.
The Nissen Hut behind the Bransfield House was used as storage during the bases operation. Today it is used as accommodation for four volunteers who come to Antartica during the Austral summer months to man the historic site. We understand that they don’t have running water.
Each time National Geographic Explorer dock in Port Lockroy, the volunteers are invited to the ship for hot showers, to have breakfast with the expedition staff and guests, to talk about their mission and to share their experiences.
The sky got dimmer and the wind got blustery as we were leaving the island. It felt like a true Antarctic weather. We admire the tenacity of the volunteers who live and work on the island and those who came long before them for the sake of research and of service to their flag.
The Final Sea Ice Walk
In the afternoon, our expedition ship was moored right on sea ice to give us an opportunity for a last fun foray on Antarctic ice.
We savored our time on this frozen sea water. We played, ran around, laid on the ice…..
….and Keith attempted to pull the ship.
Posing for our very last shot before we boarded back on the ship for the last time.
As we were climbing the stairs, Keith stepped back to kiss the ice of Antarctica goodbye. It was bittersweet.
Celebrations, Sea Crossing, Goodbyes
That night, we celebrated Keith’s birthday. The wonderful staff surprised him with a birthday serenade and cake. It was a very memorable birthday for him
After dinner, we were treated to a lively musical performance by “Spice Boy,” a group composed of expedition crew. Everyone was up and dancing – celebrating the amazing journey we all had .
The next two days were spent crossing the sea back to Ushuaia. Those days were filled with fun activities. There were lectures, film showings, culinary treats, and photography presentations from both expedition staff and guests. It was great to see everyone’s perspective of the trip through their photos.
Disembarking in Ushuiai with our expedition hosts, the wonderful husband and wife National Geographic photographers Sisse Brimberg and Cotton Coulson*.
It was an incredible trip – our best one by far. The white wilderness of Antarctica is beautiful beyond words. We feel so privileged to have witnessed and experienced its magnificence and its pristine nature.
The experience of traveling with the team and vessel of National Geogrpahic and Linblad Expeditions far exceeded our expectations. We knew it was going to be good but it turned our better than great. We highly commend the staff and crew of National Geographic Explorer whose immense joy and passion for what they do deeply touched and inspired us. We wish to travel with them again in the future.
And Antartica, thank you for the great memories. We hope to see you again…..
________________________________________
*We dedicate this post to the memory of Cotton Coulson, a legendary National Geographic photojournalist, a wonderful soul. He recently passed away in a diving accident. We feel so privileged to met him on this expedition and cherished the time with spent with him. We thank him and his wife for making our trip extra special, for their kindness and for inspiring us with their their passion for life and creativity.
_________________________________________
Linking to Weekend Travel Inspiration, The Weekly Postcard, Travel Photo, Thursday
I have loved living this adventure with you, it’s been on such a different level from most travel stories, the grandeur of the scenery especially has touched me. I am so sorry to read of the death of your friend, what a shock and how sad for you and his family.
Phoebe @ Lou Messugo recently posted..8 favourite Provençal dishes
Thank you Phoebe, his death was truly sad. But he gave us wonderful memories through this trip.
I’m glad you enjoyed our adventures. It truly was beyond ordinary and the splendor of Antarctica deeply touch as well. I hope you can make it there someday.
No! I do not want your Antarctica stories to end! What and awesome trip. I hope I can visit one day.
Ruth – Tanama Tales recently posted..Lovers Point and the Carpet of Flowers
HI Ruth, we’re also sad to end the series. Working on each post made us re-live the moments of the trip. I hope you can do this trip sometime soon.
Frankly I think that’s abellutsoy good stuff.
You’ve really helped me understand the issues. Thanks.
Antarctica is amazing. Sunrise at 2:30 a.m.? Is it because the days are were longer when you went there? Those bones buried in the snow looked so strange. I think it’s only there that you can see such a thing. Bransfield House looked very interesting. All that old-fashioned stuff… this was a great trip for you, guys!
Anda recently posted..Lucerne to Interlaken via the GoldenPass Route
Hi Anda, Yes, austral summers are long. Sunsets at around 11;30 pm and rises at a about 2:30 am. It truly was a great trip of us and I hope for you too very soon!
The two of you go on such amazing adventures. I imagine that the base must have been bitter cold in the winter since it looks almost too cold for me in your summertime photos. This cruise sounds top notch all the way. Having access to biologists and professional photographers must have been wonderful. I read yesterday about Cotton Coulson but didn’t realize that he had been on your expedition. So sad.
Hi Michelle, it was almost bitter cold when we were in that island so I can just imagine how much more so during wintertime. The Nat Geo expedition was truly topnotch and we highly recommend it to anyone interesting in going to Antartica. It’s costly than most companies but for once in a lifetime trip, you would like to do it right.
Amazing photos, they make me want to go to Antarctica, even though I don’t like the cold at all, haha.
Vlad recently posted..How to Plan the Perfect Holiday in Malta
Thanks Vlad. It’s really beyond-words beautiful and worth daring the cold.
Marisol recently posted..Antarctica: Sunrise, a Museum & Final Sea Ice Walk
I actually found this more enntrtaieing than James Joyce.
Ohhh this is amazing!!!!! I have always dreamed to do a trip like this <3
It is on the top of my bucket list, though I am not sure when I will be able to do it!
You pictures are stunning, I love the one of Keith with the boat hahaha so cool!
Hi Allane, thanks. It truly is stunning an is worth to be on top of your bucket list. I hope you can check it off sometime soon.
I could tell that this particular trip was amazing since I read your first post on Antarctica. But I really didn’t know that it coincided with Keith’s birthday — what a memorable birthday it must have been for him! Marisol, it’s been a pleasure to travel vicariously through your posts and photos. May you and Keith always be blessed with good health!
Bama recently posted..Batukaru: Sight, Sound, Taste
HI Bama, yes it was amazing from beginning to end. Celebrating Keith’s birthday there made it more special. I’m please you have enjoyed traveling vicariously with us. Thank you so much for your kind wishes.
Marisol recently posted..Antarctica: Sunrise, a Museum & Final Sea Ice Walk
What a memorable birthday for Keith, it is a pity that he wasn’t able to wake up for the sunrise. I’m sad that this series has come to an end, the two of you have inspired to me to take the trip (if I ever get the chance to)
HI Rachel, it was truly memorable for Keith. I’m glad that you have enjoyed this series. I hope you can make it there soon and share with us your own series:)
Great photos…
Muza-chan recently posted..Okayama Castle towering over the Korakuen Garden
Thank you, Lilli.
Antarctica is high on my wish list. What a fabulous adventure you’ve had!
Hi Sophie, it really was fabulous. I hope you get there soon.
oh wow those first photos of the sunrise are amazing – I am so glad you got to see it on your last day. The Penguin Post Office looks really interesting , and so great you can post mail from here. What a wonderful wonderful trip you had. Certainly something that will remain with you. One truly does admire the early explorers and those who today still man these bases. Happy travels, and thank you for another wonderful post.
Hi Jill, glad you enjoyed the post. The sunrise was a blessing to behold. Yes, we were fascinated with the post office and the spirit of those people who worked here then and now.
Oh wow! What and adventure you had. The sunrise was spectacular. I have young friend who crews on the Aurora Expedition Ship and he always describes the Antarctica as being a wonderful experience and your photos certainly reveal this.
Kathy Marris recently posted..Cozumel: Mayans and Mariachis
Hi Kathy, thanks. It was truly an adventure. How wonderful it is for your friend to repeatedly experience the wonder of this amazing continent.
Belated Happy Birthday, Keith! I guess that’s why you slept late?
My guess is this was a very memorable birthday. Heck, how many people can say they pulled a ship or any of the other fabulous things you did during their birthday trip?
Antarctica is such a fabulous place. Thanks for sharing your adventure.
HI Marcia, it has been a while. Nice to hear from you. Yes, it was his most memorable birthday. It will be hard to top it. It truly was a fabulous place. I hope you make it there someday.
Hi Marisol! What a fantastic journey you two had. I love that sunrise! The penguin post office is so appropriate. I’m sure no one leaves with posting at least one card. I’d post one to myself if I was there! All of your photos are gorgeous, and that was one amazing trip! Thanks for linking up. #TPThursday
Hi Nancie, it truly was a fantastic journey. We did post a card for ourselves and we were so excited to receive it! So glad you enjoyed the photos.
omg, I love the penguin post office! and 2 weeks to get to nyc from antarctica is really not bad at all! a 2:30am sunrise is also one of those once in a lifetime experiences you’ll always treasure, what a fantastic trip!!!
Marisol, your photos from Antarctica have been like something from a dream. Utterly surreal and beautiful beyond belief. What an incredible birthday adventure this must have been for Keith… it’s hard to think how this could ever be topped! 😀
Normally I shy away from cold-weather destinations, but I’d love to visit Antarctica some day. Until I do, however, it’s been such a joy to take part in your journey!
Amazing trip! You were so lucky that you were accompanied by such people. How did you actually managed to go there with National Geographic photographers
?
I invite you to visit my travel blog:
http://www.travelekspert.com/2015/08/throwback-friday-capoeira-show-in.html
Nice. Some of my postcards from India and Europe never arrived in the Philippines. From Antarctica, they arrived in a month? LOL Love that penguin post office! And like the others here, it’s too bad your Antarctica series is done. Envious, though. I have never been able to write up a destination as completely as you did!