Bhutan has a long tradition of colorful religious festivals. They are integral part of the cultural and spiritual life of the Bhutanese people. We wanted to witness this rich tradition for ourselves and planned our trip around a festival season.
Bhutanese believe that everyone must attend a religious festival and witness the mask dances at least once to receive blessings. The Tamshing Phala Chhoepa Festival in Bumthang was the only festival included in our itinerary, but we were fortunate to also observe the Dromchoe Festival in Thimphu and the Tsechu Festival in Wangdue. It so happened that these two extra festivals were taking place as were were visiting those places. We felt so lucky to receive blessings three times! 
Like all Bhutanese festivals, the 3-day Tamshing Phala Chhoepa Festival in Bumthang is celebrated to commemorate the good deeds of great Buddhist masters. This particular festival is held to honor the great saint Pema Lingpa and is held annually at the courtyard of Tamshing Lhakhang, a temple built by Pema Lingpa himself.
And like all Bhutanese festivals, the core of Tamshing Phala Chhoepa are the ancient traditional mask dances called “chams.” Most of the dances were created earlier than the Middle Ages. They were choreographed by the great Buddhist masters and saints themselves to convey spiritual messages to the people.
The dances re-enact significant spiritual events from the past and are mostly performed by monks in brilliant costumes. They take the roles of wrathful and compassionate deities, heroes, demons, and animals and are accompanied by blaring horns, booming drums, and clashing cymbals as they whirl and leap around the temple courtyard.
This dance is called ” The Dance of the Stag and the Hunter.” It tells the story of saint Millarepa’s conversion of a hunter, his dog and a deer into Buddhism.
The “Dance of Three Kind of Gings” is performed to bring good luck and happiness to all beings.
Each festival include atsaras (“clowns”). They mimic the dances and joke with or annoy the audience. They also help to keep order.
One of the atsaras liked bothering the audience. He asked money from the audience and then gave them blessings by patting their heads with a wooden phallus. (For more about the significance of phallus symbol in Bhutan, see this post.)
The performance extended to the roof of one of the buildings. It looked like that one of the characters was chasing an evil spirit.
The audience looked very engaged and amused.
Bhutanese believe that during the mask dances, the deities of the tantric teachings are invoked and through their power and blessings, misfortunes are removed and sins are purified. They also believed to subdue evil spirits that prevent the Buddhist teaching from flourishing, thus, bringing joy and happiness to all sentient beings.
Locals believe that by dressing in their finest is a another form of offering to please the deities that could bring them blessings and merits, It is also an occasion to see people and to be seen.
Young monks intently watching the dance drama. They were probably wishing to someday perform the dances themselves.
In between mask dances, this group of women perform folk dances and songs.
The “Dance of the Wrathful Deities” represent the ‘Buddhist teachings on the liberation of consciousness from the body.”
The “Dance of the Drummers from Drametsi” represents the entourage of Guru Rinpoche, the patron saint of Bhutan. They celebrate the victory of religion.
Audience of all ages anxiously awaiting the next dance during a break.
Monks helping monks get dressed for the next dance performance, the “Black Hat Dance.” It was the only dance without masks.
The “Black Hat Dantce” was performed in the rain. Dancers represent Tantrists with supernatural powers. They are said to drive out evil spirits and purify the grounds with their footsteps.
The” Dance of the Lords of the Cremation Grounds” depicts skeletons protecting the dwellings of the deities from evils.
This adorable old man who was siting next to us seemed fascinated with our cameras. He asked if he could try them. He looked like he was having fun.
We may not completely understood or relate to all the messages that the dance dramas conveyed, but we felt honored to experience this rich old tradition of Bhutan.
Most of all, we cherished our interactions with the locals during the festival. They gave up their prime spots for us so we could have a better view of the performances. They said that they observe the festival year after year but we may only have that one chance to do so. We were deeply touched by their warmth, hospitality and spiritual devotion.
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- Religious festivals take place throughout Bhutan all year round. We visited in autumn (September) and many of the festivals fall around this season. The date varies each year as they use the lunar calendar. If you’re interested to plan your visit around festival time, click here for the festival schedule in 2014 and early 2015.
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Linking to Nancie McKinnon’s Travel Photo Thursday , Noel Morata’s Travel Photo Discovery and Our World Tuesday,
These are seriously good photos – every.single.one
It must have been exciting to watch the dances. I would have been pinching myself to make sure it was real!
budget jan recently posted..Fantastic Friday Taxis and Mosque Istanbul
Thanks Jan! We’re so pleased you enjoyed the photos. It truly was exciting to witness festival and to see for ourselves how much such event meant to the locals.
Its the regional dance of Bhutan that is usually performed at the time of festivals. Bhutan is also famous for their festivals..
I second Jan on that as well!! I went through this twice to see all of the immense detail in the costumes. This might sound silly but I was trying to imagine the music in my head. That is so awesome that you let the gentleman have a little fun with your camera, Marisol
Mike recently posted..Add Your Brick to the Great Wall, A Handbook Review
Hi Mike, thanks! Those costumes were really awesome. We tried to download a video to give you guys an idea of the music accompaniment but it’s not working out for some reason. We need to figure it out more.
Always interesting!
Muza-chan recently posted..Sanuki Fuji
Thank Lili!
The colours, the costumes and the masks at these festivals are beautiful. Your fabulous photos have certainly bought them to life! I’ve taken note that I need to plan Bhutan around a festival..what a bonus seeing three!
jenny@atasteoftravel recently posted..Istanbul’s Stunning Chora Museum
Hi Jenny, I certainly recommend that you plan your trip around a festival. It’s an incredible experience.
Your photos are colourful and certainly convey some of the excitement but if only we could hear the beat of the music too. I suspect it was a powerful experience. At what age do people start learning and participating in the mask dances? Is it an honour to do so?
Leigh recently posted..A Stay at La Anita Rainforest Lodge in Costa Rica
Hi Leigh, it truly was a powerful experience. We tried to upload a video of one of the dance to give you an idea of the musical accompaniment but it was not working for some reason. We have to try it again. A lot of monks enter the monasteries at very your age so I assume that they learn the dances early. Yes, it is an honor for them to perform the dances.
This is a fantastic photo essay. The pictures are wonderful, and I see that you do indeed have an impressive camera to capture everything. Witnessing this festival in person must have been incredible. I can almost feel the energy flowing from the performers to the audience.
Michele {Malaysian Meanders} recently posted..Modern Art and Confusion at the Pompidou Centre
Thank you, Michelle! It really was an incredible experience.
Wow, I must admit that this performance looks so spectacular. All of the costumes are amazing! I wish I could participate in an event like this. That must have been an amazing experience. Was it free to watch it?
Agness recently posted..15 Beer Experiences From Around The World, Part 2
Hi Agness, yes all religious festivals in Bhutan are open for all and are free. I also hope that you can experience a Bhutanese festival someday.
Bhutan seems refreshingly off the mass tourist trail.
These photos enhance my interest in investing in a good camera and learning like crazy.
Mike | Earthdrifter recently posted..In the Heart of the Atacama
Hi Mike, it truly is refreshing to visit a country that is not heavily commercialized and touristed. If you have deep interest in photography I highly recommend investing in photography courses. A good camera certainly helps.
Hi M & K — what an extraordinary experience. The images you brought us are so incredible. The mask dances are mesmerizing but the images of the locals are powerful. Thanks for taking me with you in this place that I didn’t even
know existed.
Hi Carrie, our pleasure. Glad you enjoyed the tour and images.
How kind of those people to give you their spots so you could have a better view! That is true hospitality, Marisol & Keith, and a lovely blessing.
Interesting how beautiful the costumes are and how not so beautiful the masks. You got some lovely photos and wonderful memories. Thanks for taking us along.
Marcia recently posted..Ugli, the Fruit
Hi Marcia, we’re really blessed to experience the hospitality of people of Bhutan. We had really priceless memories.
Marisol recently posted..A Scenic and Cultural Hike in Ura Valley
What a great memory and how lucky for the two of you to witness such a gorgeous festival. Your amazing photos really do bring this festival alive for us. I love all the colorful costumes and creative masks and stories. I am loving the clowns that are part of the festival too. I truly admire the Bhutanese for the hospitality they have extended to you both – rare in this day and age in our part of the world. Another awesome Bhutan post and photo essay!
Mary {The World Is A Book} recently posted..Touring Biosphere 2: Where Science Lives
Thanks Mary! The costume and masks dances were truly amazing, but the kindness of the people made our experience even more special.
Marisol recently posted..A Scenic and Cultural Hike in Ura Valley
Colorful, beautiful and vibrant photos! You have really captured the essence of the festival.
Rachel M recently posted..Jumba la Mtwana
Thanks Rachel. Glad you enjoyed the photos.
Wonderful dance performances.
Rajesh recently posted..Coonoor
Thanks Rajesh.
Hey Marisol….I am soooo envious that you had this lucky 3x occurance..good for you, what time of the year was this and who did you arrange the tour with, I would really love to go here!
noel morata recently posted..Distinctive towns of Hawaii Island, Travel Photo Mondays #29
Hey Noel, we truly felt so blessed! We went in September. A lot of festival take place around autumn. We booked the trip with Friendly Planet but the local tour operator was Lingor Trek and Tours. We found them an excellent outfitter. You can book directly through them. We would have done so if we knew about them prior. We are going to do a separate about travel planning in Bhutan.
What wonderful portraits of these colorful people!
Hi Irene, thanks. Gald you enjoyed the images.
So colorful pictures of tradition! Some day I would love to visit Bhutan!
Kusum recently posted..National Parks- Anshi-Dandeli, an adventure destination of Karnataka
HiKusum, thanks. I really hope that you make it to Bhutan someday.
Wow – what amazing shots. I’d love to visit Bhutan.
Thanks. You and your camera will love Bhutan, Fiona.
These are fantastic photos! Thank you for sharing them, for giving us a window to see what you’ve seen
Bhutan is in my dream destination list. Keep them pictures coming!
Inside Cambodia recently posted..APAD 217: Woods
Thanks you, Glad you enjoyed the photo tour. Bhutan deserves to be in your top destination list.
What a blessing to witness 3 festivals during your time in Bhutan! I like the idea of incorporating festival experiences into your travels. And what a privilege it must have been for some of the audience members to get a pat on the head with a phallus! 😉
As always, your pictures are beautiful, Marisol!
Dana Carmel @ Time Travel Plans recently posted..Where to Stay in Granada: Hotel Plaza Colón
Hi Dana, thank you! It was a blessing galore indeed:)
Marisol recently posted..A Scenic and Cultural Hike in Ura Valley
Your photos are simply stunning, Marisol! What an incredible experience it must have been to attend these festivals. The costumes are so incredibly vivid and beautiful but I find that I’m drawn to the photos of the Bhutanese spectators even more. I don’t imagine that I will ever travel to Bhutan – thank you for taking me there!
Lisa Goodmurphy recently posted..The Sandals Foundation: Making a Difference
Hi Lisa, thanks. it truly was an incredible experience. I’m glad we were able to virtually take you there through our photos.
Marisol recently posted..A Scenic and Cultural Hike in Ura Valley
Lovely photos! Bhutan is a dream destination for me and I’d like to watch a mask festival there too 😀
Micamyx|Senyorita recently posted..The England Travelogue: Where I’ve Been
Thanks Mica. I hope you make it to Bhutan soon and yes, definitely plan your trip around a festival.
Marisol recently posted..A Scenic and Cultural Hike in Ura Valley
Those are really scary costumes! It’s great that you were able to witness it. I would have loved to observe this too but I guess it would take some planning. Love your photos of the people watching it, too!
Aleah | SolitaryWanderer.com recently posted..Exploring the Beauty of South Batan in Batanes
Hi Aleah, yes, advanced planning is recommended, especially if you want to plan your trip around a festival. Glad you enjoyed the photos.
Marisol recently posted..A Scenic and Cultural Hike in Ura Valley
WoW that looks spectacular, very colorful ! It must have been a great experience to see 3 of these festivals.
Love the photos
Freya recently posted..10 most Beautiful Fountains in Rome
Hi Freya, it was a great experience indeed.
What an amazing pictures! And fabulous event! Really love them!
Marysia @ My Travel Affairs recently posted..Friday Lens Affair #55
Thanks Marysia. Glad you enjoyed it.
It must be funny to participate in the dance with these costumes!
Dear Marisol & Keith
We were only thinking of you on our recent walk along the Amalfi Coast,, with so much good food and wine. We are off to have some some chilli in Bhutan tomorrow and have really enjoyed your images and Marisol’s advice. In respect of packing, the max that you can take with Druk Airlines is total of 20kg, so I am carrying a brace of lenses in my gilet and Lynds has kindly agreed to carry my tripod, for a small consideration.- probably buying a new handbag, in Florence. We will be going to the Bumthang and black Necked Crane festivals.
I have been inspired by your great festival images. This is a really great site..
BW Martin & Lynda
Hi Martin and Lynda, it was nice of you to have thought of us. We’re sure we would have enjoyed all that food and wine in Amalfi ourselves. We hope you’re having a wonderful experiences in Bhutan and that you capture beautiful images. The Black Crane Festival should be very amazing. We would love to see your photos if you have them posted in any photo sharing sites. We’re glad that you have all the packing quite figured out. Have a great and safe travel.
Marisol recently posted..Varanasi: Evening Rituals on the Ganges River
Awesome blog!
Do you happen to know any contacts who can guide us to these festivals this year?