Some people have asked us where the most fascinating place we have ever traveled. There are way too many. But one that tops the list is the city of Varanasi, the holiest city in India.
Situated along the bank of the sacred Ganges River, Varanasi is a place where Hindus aim to visit once in a lifetime. They come to participate in many spiritual rituals and to cleanse their sins by bathing in its purifying water. Witnessing the rituals for ourselves, as well as the chaos and all things unexpected, was a truly fascinating experience albeit overwhelming.
Varanasi is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and probably the oldest in India. Mark Twain described it as “older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together.” That itself is fascinating.
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We looked forward to experience the spiritual atmosphere of the holy city of Varanasi. We found that it was also blessed with holy traffic, holy pollution, holy sea of humanity, and oh so many holy cows! It was pretty intense. We realized that it was not for the faint of heart.
In our first evening in Varanasi, we took a rickshaw ride and joined throngs of locals and pilgrims in weaving through the narrow crammed street to head to the bank of the sacred Ganges River, where a nightly spiritual ceremony was to take place.
This rickshaw carrying pilgrims was moving so slow; the traffic police gave the driver a beating. Something we didn’t expect in a place where people seek for the sacred.
We got off the rickshaw and follow the thick crowd that was marching to the bank of the Ganges River.
We reached the bank of the sacred river and people were already filling its ghats (steps) to witness the nightly spiritual ceremony called the Aarti.
Aarti is a Hindu fire ceremony performed by Brahmin disciples to honor the holy river, Gods and deities. It takes place every night at around 7 pm rain or shire.
Like many people, we hired a small boat and witnessed the ritual from the river.
The ritual is a highly choreographed ceremony and includes blowing of conch shells, waiving lamps filled with incense, dancing with fire and chanting.
Devotees believe that by attending the ceremony purification and blessings are bestowed upon them.
Magnolia votive candles are sold all over the ghats. It is a common ritual for pilgrims to release them on the holy Ganges as they make a wish. Hundreds of candles can be seen floating on the river each night.
A cruise on the Ganges River revealed a more poignant scene. We came across the “burning ghat” where cremations take place night and day.
Varanasi is also called the City of Death. Hindus believe that Varanasi is the most auspicious place die. They believe that having their dead bodies washed and cremated on the Ganges and their ashes thrown in the river will liberate them from the cycle of life and death (reincarnation) and allow them to move to a higher plane of being.
Witnessing the rituals on the Ganges River this evening was a profound experience. The display of devotion from the pilgrims was deeply moving. We went back to the Ganges to witness the rituals in early morning and found it even more fascinating – in spiritual, visual and bizarre kind of ways. We will share this experience with you in our next post.
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Linking to The Weekly Postcard, Weekend Travel Inspiration and Travel Photo Discovery.
What a fascinating city. I’ve never been to India but I watched a documentary once about Varanasi. Seeing the dead bodies float on the Ganges River wasn’t exactly pleasant. There were other strange rituals that were featured in the movies that I can’t write about here, but were horrific. I read your post with a lot of interest because India is one of the destinations that is attractive and scary at the same time. In one way it carries so much culture and tradition and in another way seems frozen in time and held back by these strange and outdated rituals. You seemed to have enjoyed your trip though, which means it’s not too bad…
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Hi Anda, it is fascinating in many kind of ways – both good and bad. I know about the floating dead bodies, fortunately we didn’t see one. India is a land of contrast – it’s both beautiful and sad and can be an assault to your senses. It’s not for everyone. But if you can look beyond the filth and the bizarre, you can appreciate its deep fascinating and colorful ancient culture.
Marisol, this is the most appealing post on Varanasi I’ve ever read so far! I’ve seen some photos of Aarti before, but the fact that you took the pictures from a boat provided us another perspective of the holy ritual. Such a magnificent and beautiful ceremony! Varanasi, or Benares as how it was called back then when I first learned about it, seems like a city that embodies India herself: sacred, beautiful, crowded, filthy, enchanting.
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Hi Bama, thanks! I’m glad to hear that. Aarti is indeed a powerful ceremony if you don’t understand Hinduism. You’re right, it’s the true embodiment of India.
Marisol, I love your photos. When we were in Varanasi it was shrouded in fog and quite spooky. I did not care at all for the pollution and the traffic, but it was a fascinating place. I should have stayed longer, I think. Thanks for linking up with #wkendtravelinspiration!
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HI Corinne, thank you! I wish I saw Varanasi in fog and see for myself how spookier it gets! I hear you about the pollution and the traffic. Now that I’m away from it, I’m able to look past the chaos and get to deeply appreciate the culture that is still embedded in the city,
Interesting…
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Thanks Lili, it truly is,
Wonderful shots of holy city. I like them.
Rajesh recently posted..Poetry in Stone – 24
Hi Rajesh, thank you! I’m glad you approve the shots of your holy city,
I had never heard of Varanasi before reading this post, but I see how this evening of ritual made it the top of your best experiences list. Your photos are amazing, really inviting. It just seems like an amazing thing to witness (except for the driver beating). Thanks for sharing the photos at Weekend Travel Inspiration, or I may not have found you. .
Rhonda Albom recently posted..A Twisted Victorian Tale: Halloween at MOTAT in Auckland
Hi Rhonda, thanks. Glad you enjoyed the photos. The evening rituals is just a small part of what makes it so fascinating. I’d love for you to see the morning rituals. Thanks for visiting.
What a spectacular post. I’m not sure if I will ever get there myself but I love your photos. All they need is a sound track and it would complete the picture
It would be an overwhelming, exciting, poignant and even scary experience I think. I can’t wait to hear about the morning ceremony. I would love to hear the conch shells. I heard them at a Dire Straits concert in Townsville 30 years ago and really liked the sound. In the Varanasi setting it would be superb.
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Hey Jan, I’m really surprised you haven’t made it there yet. You’re one person I thought for sure would have brave it by now. Overwhelming and poignant experience – yes. But not really scary. The sound of the conch shell was truly beautiful, pretty spiritual. Although I would think that the sound would come out differently at a Dire Straits concert- more wildly, I think?:)
These are the reasons why I like your blog and YOU! YOu say what what you want to without any fear! It was a great read Vix. I can see we as women have come a long way but yet have quite a distance to cover. And how to I express my feiismnm? But just being who I am whether males (or females) like it or not!
What an interesting place and one that seems to hit all the senses full on. It’s interesting that they do this ritual nightly and that there is enough demand for cremation that the pyre burns continuously. Every bit of this post fascinates me. I have rarely had a guide with me when I’ve witnessed Indian rituals, and I usually find myself wishing I had a better understanding of what was going on.
Michele {Malaysian Meanders} recently posted..Penang’s colonial past at the Old Protestant Cemetery
Hi Michelle, you’re so right – it’s an assault to all the senses indeed. The cremations, the rituals, the devotion, that chaos — it truly is fascinating in a mind boggling kind of way
Marisol recently posted..Varanasi: Evening Rituals on the Ganges River
My son has actually been to Varanasi during his world travels in 2012. I remember him telling me what a fascinating place it was and showing me his photos. Although India has never been on my ‘must see’ list, I think I am beginning to warm to the idea of checking it out. Thank you for bringing this place to me with your wonderful photos.
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Hi Kathy, our pleasure. It must have left an great impression (good and bad) in your son’s mind. I hope you can it check it our yourself someday.
Varanasi – probably one of the craziest Indian cities, yet there’s something special about it, right?
However, the evening ceremony is magical, yet insanely loud 😀
Elena@Elena’s Travelgram recently posted..Best French Food in One Box
HI Elena, yes, as holy as it is, it’s also one of the craziest. I guess that what’s makes its fascinating, its contradictions. True, the evening ceremony is interesting but it was not that loud at all.
Marisol recently posted..Varanasi: Evening Rituals on the Ganges River
I’d love to see this ritual for myself someday. India is still on my wishlist – so many places to see! I find Hinduism fascinating and this would be an incredible ceremony to witness. Your pictures capture the mood so well!
Dana Carmel @ Time Travel Plans recently posted..3 Ways to Experience the Coastal Redwoods     Â
Hi Dana, thanks. They have many fascinating rituals and I hope you get to witness them someday.
Your pictures are as of being right out of a movie (yet again), Marisol. Excellent addition of Mark Twain’s quote – wow did he nail that, huh? And your’s was just as good, “it was also blessed with holy traffic, holy pollution, holy sea of humanity, and oh so many holy cows” LOL
I would probably like to visit India someday but it low on my list. I would like to see the beatituful countryside of the northern part of the country. Wonderful post 
Thank you, Mike! Glad you enjoyed the quotes:) It’s not the easiest and most comfortable place to visit, but if you keep an open mind you will appreicate its fascinating culture, rituals and people.
holy traffic, holy pollution LOL! The Aarti Ceremony, the night shots, the views from the boat WOW! Great how a culture and ritual has survived for thousand of years …
Rachel@safari254 recently posted..Mount Elgon National Park
hi Rachel, it’s really amazing how they survived for thousand of years, I guess that’s what makes India’s culutre inredible.
Marisol recently posted..Varanasi: Morning Rituals in the Ganges River
This looks like such an intense experience albeit unforgettable too. It certainly is fascinating. Beautiful photos of such an interesting ritual and pilgrimage. The cows, traffic and pollution seem to be prevalent in many of the India posts so I’m glad to see you had such a positive experience.
Mary {The World Is A Book} recently posted..Exploring the Valley of Fire State Park
HI Mary, Yes it was both intense and unforgettable. Truly fascinating to experience.
Even though photos in places like this tend to take themselves, these are some of the nicest I’ve seen of Varanasi. Also, you’ve chosen the perfect time (weather wise) to visit India. To say: ‘What a destination!’ is an understatement.
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Hi Mike, Thanks, that such a compliment We found visiting in November perfect weather-wise. So, that that would be an understatement.
What an incredible experience and truly stunning shots. I’m not sure though how I would like press of humanity but to witness such a ritual would be fabulous. Another interesting travel destination you’ve picked.
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Hi Leigh, thanks. The press of humanity was quite overwhelming., but the incredible. experience made it quite worth it.
I’m not sure how I managed to come across your post, I think it was while trying to find the exact meaning of Aarti ceremony. My husband and I just got back from a 5-week journey through India. I must tell you we had the most wonderful exciting experience we have ever had in all our world travels. Already we have the urge to go back. Varanasi was my favorite city, The cremations and the Aarti rituals where absolutely overwhelming.. Yes, one has to keep an open mind when traveling in India. For me, after a few days in India, I did not notice the cows on the roads anymore but rather the beautiful women dressed in their beautiful saris walking gently among the cows. I hardly noticed the traffic jams anymore but rather observed and admired our professional drivers as the navigated calmly through the traffic mess. No road rage here. I have pictures of the ceremonies, but they are not nearly as beautiful as yours.. Thanks for sharing the pictures and your experience. We loved India.
Hi Ilse, I’m so glad to hear that you had a wonderful experience in Varanasi. Thanks for sharing your experience and for dropping by.
This article is incredible with much information on this subject. I have not seen photos of this city in such a high resolution, very incredible and amazing this city is.
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